Jag2/ n.sl. 1 a drinking bout; a spree. 2 a period of indulgence in an activity, emotion etc
Three men, four surfboards, one coffee machine and a whole bunch of enthusiasm with a pinch of apprehension, were the ingredients required to create one epic surf roadie.
Phil, Kevin and John (the writer) set off from Auckland mid Sunday morning in the knowledge that the East Coast still held a lingering ground swell passing slowly down the country. An early afternoon arrival at Mt Maunganui revealed plenty of swell and only a light onshore sea breeze to contend with. A quick trip down the road to Omanu, offered an empty line-up with great 3-4’ left and right banks. With barely a word uttered, we were into the surf and away for the next 2 hours of great afternoon waves.
Toward the end of this session the first incident occurred with a collision between Kevin and Phil resulting in a calf muscle injury to Phil, thankfully recorded on camera ( not so much for the sake of posterity but to cover any legal issues at a later date!). Phil still managed to grab a few more nice right handers throughout the session with Kevin nailing some long peeling rights into the beach. 
A fantastic start to the trip with the surf gods shining down from the outset. After booking in to Belle Mer apartment on the beach at Tay St and grabbing a quick bite and drink it was back in to the water, this time on the south side of the Mount island then across for some ‘muntier’ action on the main beach shorey.
Day one and what a start – 2 surfs in first afternoon. John on dinner, perhaps the only anticlimax with an ominous sign of things to come on the fuel front. Only other concern being Phil’s leg with a history of clotting (his leg, not him); icing and compression were the call of the evening.
Day two, the plan to surf early then start working our way south (to follow the direction of the low pressure) eventuated true to our desires with nearby Tay St firing with a clean 3’ offshore and only a handful in the water. The boys hit it with the enthusiasm of teenagers (Phil limping down the beach like an 18 year old!). Waves galore for all 3; long, well formed right-handers combined with a few fast, grunty, left handers to produce a near perfect session…. Contented with a great surf followed by brunch at the Mount, it was off down the coast. First stop Makatu – something of an unknown we found a great little town on the coast with a small river mouth and while the surf was small, the potential looked excellent with a small right hand break rolling down the point across the river mouth. Over the hill we discovered Newdicks beach – a $3.00 charge to access the beach across a private farm was a small price to pay with another great looking spot – beach break combined with a few rock outcrops forming A frames at the northern end of the beach. Being a bit windblown (although still surfable) it was decided to head straight through to the East Coast.
It should be noted that over the first 24 hours of our trip, the one missing item had been clouds with picture perfect weather to date, however that was all to change as we got halfway through the Waioeka gorge – the clouds descended with drizzle and rain to follow us around for the next 48 hours.
A quick check of the Gisborne coast resulted in the decision to head straight through to Mahia, another hour down the coast, so after a quick stock up in town it was off to pastures unknown. We arrived later that afternoon to our house for the next 3 days at the north end of Mahanga beach. While the south western side of the Peninsula was flat and onshore, Mahanga beach on the ocean side was out of control with little help from a crosswind coming up the beach. The bach being a large barnlike setup is owned by Jeff Bradburn (ex-pat living in France and working for Quicksilver).
Spirits were still high with Kevins I-Phone (the only technically assisted device on tour) promising a wind swing to the southwest and an ease in swell overnight. Dinner was an ordinary mockup aided immeasurably by plenty of wine and good music.
The next morning, despite still being damp and murky, did look more promising on the surf front with Mahanga having settled down a little overnight. Local knowledge care of friend Kim Hemus (regular visitor to Bradburns) suggested we head over the hill to a private access break called ‘Last Chance’. Arrival at the top gate gave us a breathtaking view down the valley with a long pealing left hand reef break and a larger right at the south end of the bay making for every surfers dream. The wind was clean offshore, the size perfect and so with a quick clearance from the landowners we were happily dancing our way down the track to the beach (even Phil!!). Unfortunately our dreams were nearly shattered as we were confronted by a solid dumping of waves on large rolling boulders further complicated by some full on 5-6’ sets pouring through as we tried to find the right access. Thankfully a couple of locals turned up in time to direct us into the lineup without too much damage done – albeit a hectic paddle out between sets.
After a fairly nervous start, working out the takeoff zone, where not to get caught inside and how the hell to get out back again, we were into it with waves aplenty pouring through. There was some variation in swell direction which made life interesting however in general we were treated to some amazing surf – big steep takeoffs followed by long feathering walls all the way through to the inside (then off and gone, scratching for the horizon before the next set arrived). Wave height thankfully settled down to a more comfortable 3-4’ with the odd bigger one sneaking through.
A midday soak at the hot springs in Morere was the ideal remedy for some already aching bodies (over 150 years accumulative age needing some early TLC on this trip) then it was back for more of the same later in the afternoon. Last Chance again, with the tide fuller and the swell slightly smaller, nevertheless we ‘suffered’ the same fate with conditions largely unchanged and only 6-7 in the water all afternoon (9 in total in the morning). With the morning surf under our belt, we were able to surf with more confidence in the afternoon, with all 3 of us keen to seek deeper take-offs and longer rides across the bay.
Thankfully after such a great days surfing, the mediocre food issue was well and truly offset by memories of some of the best waves we could have wished for anywhere in the country.
Morning greeted us with a clearing sky and a much settled Mahanga beach. A quick view from the deak was enough to have the boys togged up and in the water in no time. Off the northern point was a fast breaking solid 3’ left hander. We had read and been advised that this was a fairly innocuous, all round beach break, however clearly today was the exception. This wave was gangbusters – a peaky takeoff followed by a solid drop which formed in to a very fast and very hollow left hand wall that more often than not, broke through perfectly for close to 100 metres. Not much room to maneuver ,more a matter of working the board fast and high to make it through the fast moving sections. For 3 old longboarders, this was perhaps as good a test as it gets with plenty of barrel opportunities surprisingly without too much effort. For the writer, there was nothing more satisfying than paddling out past both Phil and Kev to see them regularly tucking in down the perfect pitching line and more often than not popping out the other end some 40-50 metres down the line.. Again, we played the Ground Hog Day card with a quick fuel-up and then in to another session on the same break. As per the previous day, we weren’t to be disappointed with ‘our’ left hander performing almost immaculately again even on the lower tide.
With a free afternoon and bodies starting to really ache we decided to head back to Gisborne in a hope that the swell would still be getting in further up the coast (and a predicted swing in the wind back to the west). Unfortunately it was all still a bit of a mess in town with poor weather and onshore conditions. Wainui was small and mushy.
A poor choice of Motel near Waikanae beach in town meant a couple of nights of truck and train counting however this was a small price to pay with a sumptuous dinner out on our first night at The Wharf restaurant in town and more great surf to come.
Thursday morning we travelled straight to Wainui relieved to see the swell up and the wind blowing nicely out of the west. 2-3’ and some nice banks up between Whales and Pines (toward the north end) had us back in for yet another great session especially as the tide started to drop. The waves got longer and hollower with a peaky A frame offering options in both directions.
We then visited friends Dave and Doreen Falkner and Dave’s Mum Jan (her house being on the beach at the south end of Wainui….magnifique!!). With a cup of coffee and pie stop under our belts it was off to Makorori Point for some hopeful longboard heaven. While it wasn’t as big as we would have liked, the point was at least working and the wind had remained light (on/cross shore). With only a handful out it looked as though we were in for a fun afternoon, especially with the sun well and truly dominating the sky all day. We weren’t to be disappointed and in fact the wave size was deceptively bigger than we had anticipated after viewing from the car park. The boys feasted all afternoon with some fun, long workable right handers in to the bay and despite the long paddles back out to the lineup the bodies seemed to hold up well.
The next morning dawned grey and wet with the onshore well and truly back to ruin any chance of another surf that morning. After taking a look at Makorori it was decided to drive up to Tolaga Bay for a look at some of the local sites. One thing lead to another so before we knew it we were travelling up Highway 35 toward the East Cape. Lunch at Ruatoria was something of an eye-opener if only to reiterate that there is a real wilderness to this part of the country. Horse back is still a common form of transport and pit-bulls wandering the streets don’t appear to be out of place either. Te Reo was also commonly spoken in the town Café.
Onward toward the Cape, we drove down to a number of bays with Waiparo Bay one of the highlights. A small 2’ wave was breaking halfway down the main beach so we took the decision to get wet if only to get our wave and destination surfing counts up – we were again pleasantly surprised by the standard of wave despite our initial concerns.
After some amazing sightseeing including the rugged, desolate Rangitukia coastline (home of the great George Nepia), and a trip out to the East Cape light house via Te Araroa which revealed some coastline of real potential we drove on to our destination for the night, Hicks Bay Motel. Kevin spied a small break below the motel next to Hicks Bay, called Onepoto (Horseshoe Bay). While the waves looked tiny the south end did have some sort of peak and a backdrop that was nothing short of spectacular. It should be noted that as we had headed across from East Cape to Hicks Bay, the clouds parted to give us a beautiful warm afternoon. With these conditions Phil and John headed out for a quick bodysurf with Kevin, ever the optimist, willing to chance it with the 9’6”. On entering the water a set that got close to 2’ came through which saw John and Phil scurrying up the beach to grab boards and jump back out. Any lack of size or grunt was nicely offset by the setting and conditions – warm, clear and glorious.
Evening back up the hill was a treat with an iconic ‘60’s Motel/restaurant – well patronized by holiday makers and locals alike – friendly atmosphere – interesting hosts – wonderful outlook – surprisingly good food – and a Glow worm Grotto toboot!!
Saturday morning dawned clear and cool and with a distinct lack of swell in the bay below was to mean our last day on tour. We took our time enjoying the sights up the coast to Te Kaha, through to Opotiki and then on home via Waihi.
While there was perhaps a slight air of disappointment at not scoring one final surf especially with so much coastline to choose from heading north, I believe we all felt totally satisfied that this had been one exceptional week for the 3 of us. To have been able to get in 11 surfs at 9 different destinations inside 6 days would be hard to emulate anywhere in the world let alone in this country. What made it very special was the quality and variation of surf combined with some truly magnificent sights that this part of the country so readily serves up and a big dose of good old fun throughout.
A special heads up for the boys’ better halves with Lynne initiating and providing this trip as part of Phil’s 60th birthday celebration. Ruth being a true gem in having to undergo an emergency appendix operation on the day of our departure, yet insisting that Kevin not pull out of the trip. Alison also for being the 3rd wife and I suspect just happy to get rid of John for the week.
As an aside, for all prospective clients of the Auckland Tour Co surf trips some interesting statistics as follows - all numbers inclusive of the 3 tourists;
Surf 1 - Omanu Beach - 4 surfers on left/right peak over 2.5 hour surf.
Surf 2 - Main Beach, Mt Maunganui - dumpy right/left breaks along beach - up to 30 spread over 4-5 banks - crowded but plenty of floaters over 2 hour surf.
Surf 3 - Tay St - right hand bank with odd lefts - 4-5 surfers on near perfect A frame over period of 2.5 hours.
Surf 4 - Last Chance, Mahia - 7 out on left hand reef over 2.5 hours.
Surf 5 - Last Chance, Mahia - 7-9 out on same bank over 2 hours.
Surf 6 - Mahanga Point, Mahia - 5 out on left hand peak over 2.5 hours
Surf 7 - Mahanga Beach/Point - 3-4 out over 2 hours.
Surf 8 - Whales, Wainui Beach - 5-6 out over 2.5 hours.
Surf 9 - Makorori Point - 3-5 out over 2.5 hours.
Surf 10 - Waipiro Bay - 3 out on left/right beach break over 2.5 hours (no other people spotted in this area during entire stay)
Surf 11 - Horseshoe Bay - 3 out on right hand beach break over 1.5 hours.
No hassling entire time - mellow locals as long as etiquitte maintained.
As an aside, for all prospective clients of the Auckland Tour Co surf trips some interesting statistics as follows - all numbers inclusive of the 3 tourists;
Surf 1 - Omanu Beach - 4 surfers on left/right peak over 2.5 hour surf.
Surf 2 - Main Beach, Mt Maunganui - dumpy right/left breaks along beach - up to 30 spread over 4-5 banks - crowded but plenty of floaters over 2 hour surf.
Surf 3 - Tay St - right hand bank with odd lefts - 4-5 surfers on near perfect A frame over period of 2.5 hours.
Surf 4 - Last Chance, Mahia - 7 out on left hand reef over 2.5 hours.
Surf 5 - Last Chance, Mahia - 7-9 out on same bank over 2 hours.
Surf 6 - Mahanga Point, Mahia - 5 out on left hand peak over 2.5 hours
Surf 7 - Mahanga Beach/Point - 3-4 out over 2 hours.
Surf 8 - Whales, Wainui Beach - 5-6 out over 2.5 hours.
Surf 9 - Makorori Point - 3-5 out over 2.5 hours.
Surf 10 - Waipiro Bay - 3 out on left/right beach break over 2.5 hours (no other people spotted in this area during entire stay)
Surf 11 - Horseshoe Bay - 3 out on right hand beach break over 1.5 hours.
No hassling entire time - mellow locals as long as etiquitte maintained.